In Virginia, probably 90% of the Commonwealth's farm wineries produce a wine labeled with blush or rosé or some other proprietary term. The red varietals range from the traditional Pinot Noir to Sangiovese and Norton. We have selected here to mention a very few from the many pink wines that can be found across Virginia: Barboursville produces lovely Vintage Rosé, a blend of Nebbiolo, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese that had brief skin contact time to produce a hint of pineapples and mangos.  Delfosse's 2006 Rosé is dry with a hint of fresh strawberries on the nose and a delightful finish.  Kluge Estate's 2006 Albemarle Rosé is dry with a refreshing finish and is one of the best-balanced and flavorful summer picnic wines we've tasted in a long time.

When someone suggests having a rosé wine, what is your first thought?  Europeans would think of Anjou Rosé from the Loire Valley, Bandol from Provence, or Tavel from the southern Rhone Valley - delightfully dry pink wines to enjoy young in an informal atmosphere. North Americans, on the other hand, would probably visualize a pale pink or tangerine hued sweet wine.  Unfortunately, mass marketing of mediocre sweet pink wines has formed our opinion of all such wines in the sense of insipid, cheap, intoxicating fortified bottles of the legendary sweet swill favored by alcoholics and college freshmen - all an embarrassment to the world of fine wine and food.

Traditionally, European rosé wines - pinkish in color - are dry, young and refreshingly delightful. They are meant to be enjoyed young, within a couple of years of harvest. Never plan to age a rosé; it is just not created for aging, but for enjoying young fresh and bursting with spring fruit characteristics, especially strawberries.

All authorities agree that rose wines are not considered "serious" wines and would never be served at a formal dinner; however, one of the most highly acclaimed - and priced accordingly - wines in the world is Dom Pérignon Rosé. It was first produced in 1959 exclusively for the Shah of Iran's entertaining. The first commercial vintage from 1962, released in 1970 was highly regarded.

Baby Boomers will remember the popularity of Mateus in the squatty Bocksbeutel and Lancers in the painted bottle, along with the emergence of blush wines from California. The term blush for pink wines came about in 1978 when a brainstorming session in California resulted in the trademarking of the term. Wineries who chose to use it on their labels were expected to pay royalties. The holder of the trademark did not become wealthy as a result, but the name caught on quickly as a marketing name for semi-sweet wines from a couple of large California wineries, then spread across the continent. The term is generally restricted to North America and some areas in Australia.

In Europe, the grape varietals used for rosé wines are determined by the approved varietals for the growing area.  In the United States, it is a winemaker's decision. The red grape varietals are selected from those that are readily available.

This is a category of wine where we strongly suggest primary research. Seeing blush or rosé on the label gives no hint of what you might experience from the glass. Reading the winery's description can be a beginning, but you definitely need to try it for yourself.

• Two bottles of DuCard's Popham Run Red - our Bordeaux blend wine from the inaugural 2005 vintage. 
• A 16-piece assortment box of Gearhart's gourmet chocolates - hand crafted and incredibly delicious. 
• Packaged together and suitable for gift wrapping.
• $70 (tax included)